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A Lisboeta's guide to the city's best neighbourhood pastelarias
Published Jun 4, 2026
Food journalist who eats out five nights a week. Obsessed with immigrant kitchens and old-school Portuguese cooking. Distrusts any restaurant with a QR code menu.
Background: Food writing and restaurant criticism
Credentials: Published in Portuguese food magazines
Forget the queue at Manteigaria. These are the neighbourhood pastelarias where Lisboetas line up for their morning bica and pastel de nata, far from any guidebook.
Local tip
A neighbourhood institution since 1949, with the kind of polished wood counters that have been there longer than most of the customers. Has won "Best Pastel de Nata in Lisbon" in blind tastings several times, which the regulars regard as confirmation of what they already knew.